Coat of Dreams | Lagan by Itch to Stitch

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Detail of my beloved sewing machine, my great-grandmother’s Singer 401G.

Almost a decade ago, I went into Simply Fabrics and picked up some beautiful wool coating fabric. I did what some people don’t recommend: stashing fabric with no real plans for it.

What these people don’t understand is that sometimes things happen on their own schedule, and that you have to be alert to opportunities.

All I knew at the time was that I wanted to make myself a winter coat, and that it would be in that fabric. I grabbed it all – it was the last of the roll, of course – and off I went with my purchase, knowing that when I found the right pattern, I’d be ready to go with the fabric.

The right pattern is the Lagan coat, recently released by Itch to Stitch – and needless to say, it’ll be this winter’s sewing project! So I’m introducing it to you today, with a view to posting updates throughout the season as I make progress.

First things first: here’s the fabric!

On the left you can see the twill construction of the wool fabric; on the right is the somewhat creased lining, which matches the beige/oatmeal tones of the wool pretty well, though I do say so myself. You’ll see from the links that Lagan is a classic, full of vintage vibes, and the research doesn’t stop there: the pattern features a back stay, something I’ve yet to see on modern sewing patterns. Details like that make me want to elevate my sewing, so I’m taking my time over interfacing and I may also add a waist stay. The skirt of the coat isn’t gored and doesn’t look particularly heavy, but I do want it to last and fit me well for as long as possible. Best to play safe.

The pattern pieces for the Lagan coat, all 24 of them.

Thanks to Patternsy‘s speedy shipping (they dispatched my order in less than 90 minutes – thank you Patternsy) and the pattern’s cup size options, I received the printout the day after purchase and was able to get everything ready for cutting within a week – comfortably so. Barring a little grading at the side seams and my standard back alteration, I am all but ready to go! It’s just a matter of planning my time, and thankfully I have my bullet journal by my side. Here’s how I’ve been using it for sewing projects:

Sewing checklist from my bullet journal, showing my plans and notes for the Deer and Doe Myosotis dress(es).

Like most BuJo spreads, it takes a bit of preparation, but this kind of list works well for me and I’ll develop something similar for the Lagan coat. Breaking things down into steps doesn’t always come naturally to me, but I have a busy season ahead and I know I’ll be glad to see incremental progress. I didn’t know that ticking boxes could be so good for my morale, but there you go – always learning. That, plus the prospect of having a smart coat – I’ve been wearing a shearling-lined parka for several winters now – will keep me ticking over nicely.

Apart from interfacing, I’m also considering interlining the coat; maybe with Thinsulate or brushed cotton for extra warmth. I don’t think I have enough fabric to add a button-on hood, but you never know! The sewing gods might help me out again – they already know I’m grateful ;-).

And as for details, I’ve already decided on covered buttons. I very much doubt that my machine will be able to get through the fabric, so I’m going to do what everyone else in London does and head over to the Button Man. If you’re not in London, don’t worry – mail order is also an option. There’s plenty to be said for industrial buttonholers, and D.M. Buttons are the best around. Just don’t bug them during fashion week!

I can’t wait to report back. In the meantime, let me know what you think of the pattern!

Coat of Dreams | Lagan by Itch to Stitch

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Natalie in Stitches

I design size inclusive knitting patterns for clothes makers who want their garments to fit well. Clothes should serve you, not the other way around. You alter clothes to fit you, not alter yourself to fit the clothes. I also teach people how to sew, how to design knitwear, and am currently creating a comprehensive, year-long knitwear design course, covering everything from illustration to pattern grading. If you're enjoying my content, you can get more by following me on Instagram or Pinterest @natalieinstitches, or signing up to my newsletter. Thank you for reading!

7 thoughts on “Coat of Dreams | Lagan by Itch to Stitch

  • September 22, 2021 at 12:51 pm

    I must check out Itch to Stitch. I need a winter sewing project and your description of what you are doing is very tempting!

    • September 22, 2021 at 12:58 pm

      Ah, thank you Caroline 🙂 ITS has a lovely selection and the cup sizes are a godsend, so I hope you see something you like.
      Plus, I think a slow sew is what’s needed sometimes. For me, there’s been slightly too much urgency with my sewing projects, and whilst this is an important one, I’m forced to take my time. Since writing I’ve decided to keep away from fusible interfacings, and using couture/tailoring techniques alone for the first time is going to be – among other things – interesting!

  • September 22, 2021 at 4:18 pm

    I love that pattern! and of course the fabric, good choices.

  • September 22, 2021 at 10:31 pm

    LOVE this idea! I am not a sewist, but reading your blog brings back fond memories of “helping” my mom, who is an amazing sewist. (Mostly, I sat and bugged– I mean, talked to– her while she sewed.) She is still available for my occasional request for a bespoke item. For no particular reason, this put me in mind of the time before our first family trip to Europe when we bought me a full-length cotton duster jacket off the rack and Mom actually paid to have it professionally lined (since we were leaving in April, when it was likely to still be chilly in Northern Europe). As a lover of fine fabrics, I strongly approve of your fabric choices! Can’t wait to follow!

    • September 22, 2021 at 10:40 pm

      Thank you! Especially for that tidbit of family history ☺️
      I hope to post again in a few weeks; just need to make final decisions about linings before I head off to the shops. Sharing the process is going to be a lot of fun!

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