Coat of Dreams | All About Linings

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I’m glad to tell you that, after a bit of deliberation, I have found all the fabric and haby I’ll need for the Lagan coat!  Today I’ll talk about the various linings I plan to use for construction.

Last month I mentioned that I didn’t want to use fusible interfacings, so I took myself off to my local fabric shop in search of an underlining.  Underlinings are typically well-structured woven fabrics that are attached to the main cloth within the seam allowance; thus, they are treated as one during construction.  They offer support, but they can also be a design feature: Guipure lace often has an underlining in a paler or contrast fabric to show off the intricately detailed pattern.

White Guipure lace, backed with almond-coloured satin. This is a typical example of a bridal application.

Your chosen underlining should be of a similar weight to your main cloth, and a common go-to is organza.  Because I’m making a coat, I knew organza would be too lightweight, but I stopped by the display anyway.  Good thing I did: otherwise, I’d never have seen my ideal fabric!  This plaid silk taffeta is a deadstock from Designer’s Guild, and I’m a bit sorry to have to hide it away in the guts of my coat.  The colours work beautifully together.

My oatmeal wool coating fabric above, with my plaid rust and blue-grey taffeta destined for underlining below.

Next up was finding an interlining.  This is a floating layer between the ‘proper’ lining and the main cloth, designed to trap in extra warmth.  I found this 80/20 cotton/wool mix from Croft Mill, so I just needed to check the quantity needed to make another lining.  Again, this won’t be seen when the coat is finished.  I was worried that the pale blue might peek through the beige print lining, but after seeing that the cream colourway was nearly twice the price of the pale blue, I decided I’d live with it no matter what!  It also shipped very quickly, which was an extra bonus.  This is my second time shopping with Croft Mill, and again I’m very happy with the quality of their service.  They also have a gorgeous selection of brushed cottons and other winter fabrics, just in case anyone else is thinking of sewing some winter garments.

Oatmeal wool coating, plaid silk taffeta, and the addition of powder blue wool/cotton twill, destined for the interlining.

My last consideration was some petersham or grosgrain ribbon for a waist stay.  It’s not called for in the Lagan instructions, but I suspect I’ll need it due to the extra fabric weight.  I may also add a panel of the taffeta to the back skirt to minimise ‘seating’.  This panel will be a smidgen narrower than the coat – no more than 1cm/½ an inch or so – but I’ll also remember to do all the good things that I was told as a child!  Sometimes, especially if you’re travelling in the cold, you can’t help sitting in your coat for a long time.  At least I’ll be prepared if I put the back panel in.  An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Periwinkle petersham ribbon, about the width of the coat waistband. This will be the waist stay.

Because there are fewer pieces, the chances are I’ll sew the linings first.  It also means that I won’t have to worry so much about leaving things on hold for a bit, or if the fabric happens to stretch.  Staystitching is one thing, but it’s no harm is the lining is a bit bigger than the main coat.  The pattern pieces already have a pleat or two, so that will take up any excess.

Clockwise from top left: Oatmeal wool coating, red and blue-grey plaid taffeta, powder-blue wool/cotton twill, and the beige print main lining fabric. The two on the right will be hidden away inside the coat. Only you and I will know that they are there!

I almost forgot: I have some shoulder pads on standby.  The pattern calls for sleeve roll, but 1) I’d rather have a proper pad; and 2) My shoulders slope slightly more than average.  I favour felt pads; they’re the best quality, and you can add or remove layers as needed.  They’re also fairly easy to make if you happen to have odd pieces of felt around and fancy a bit of hand sewing.

Felt shouler pads from MacCulloch and Wallis. These are built up of layers of felt.

So that’s about it for the Lagan coat prep!  I can’t imagine that I’ve missed anything, but if I have, I’ll cover it in the next post.  Because there are so many stages, I’m going to create a bullet journal spread for this project.  I can see myself feeling overwhelmed or frustrated if I don’t break this down well enough, so I also hope that means it won’t be too long before I post another coat update.  If you’re reading this and also thinking of making a coat, let me know – I will appreciate having some coat buddies! 😊

All my coat materials together, awaiting my attention.
Coat of Dreams | All About Linings

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Natalie in Stitches

I design size inclusive knitting patterns for clothes makers who want their garments to fit well. Clothes should serve you, not the other way around. You alter clothes to fit you, not alter yourself to fit the clothes. I also teach people how to sew, how to design knitwear, and am currently creating a comprehensive, year-long knitwear design course, covering everything from illustration to pattern grading. If you're enjoying my content, you can get more by following me on Instagram or Pinterest @natalieinstitches, or signing up to my newsletter. Thank you for reading!

6 thoughts on “Coat of Dreams | All About Linings

  • October 27, 2021 at 2:28 pm

    Good morning, Natalie. I’m finding your coat project very interesting. I made a coat for one of my granddaughters a couple of years ago and now am finding anything “tailoring “ to be extremely fascinating! I’m looking forward to watching your coat come together. And your colors are just beautiful!
    Thank you for sharing your coat journey with us!

    • October 27, 2021 at 4:42 pm

      Thank you Heather – I’m glad you’ll be keeping me company! Fingers crossed for some sewing time next month 😊

  • October 27, 2021 at 8:18 pm

    I too am happy to be on this ‘journey’ with you. Enjoying and learning.

  • January 15, 2023 at 10:45 am

    I am admire how you are gathering everything you need before you start and breaking the creation down into parts. So different from my approach. I have no doubt that this will be wonderful when finished (will read the rest of your posts about it) and I might even try this approach as my new year’s resolution in sewing!

    • January 15, 2023 at 12:50 pm

      🥰 Thank you very much! I’ve been working on a few sewing projects over the holiday, so there’ll be an update on this coat before long. And happy sewing to you!


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