Coat of Dreams | Interlining Construction

My final, if not penultimate, post of the year is an update on my Lagan coat! It’s slightly later than planned, but I’m pleased to say that some progress has been made.

Me fondling the Croft Mill goodies as only a fabric aficionado can

I decided to begin with the interlining – the floating layer of cotton/wool that I bought from Croft Mill – so that it could double as a kind of toile. Truthfully, I should be using heavier, coat-appropriate fabric, but I don’t have anything suitable. The advantage of using the interlining like this is that, because it’s hidden away in the guts of the coat, any dodgy fit can be addressed without compromising its functionality.

I bought two metres of the interlining fabric, and this turned out to be slightly too much in my case (the pattern specifies this quantity). 1.6m would have done, but there we go. Apart from the pockets, I cut out the required pieces, and I was glad that there were far fewer than there are for the main coat! It didn’t take long at all, nor marking any notches or tailor’s tacks for darts.

Four of the six pattern pieces laid out for the interlining. My cutting table isn’t big enough to fit them all on at once, so the under sleeve and front skirt are missing.

Itch to Stitch provides thorough instructions as a rule, and although the lining construction was easy enough to understand without them, it was nice to have a run-through. There are ease pleats at the centre back and at the bust point where the lining joins the facing, plus some ease at the elbow of the two-piece sleeve. I find it much easier and quicker to just take all the ease as pleats; the difference is negligible and you still get all the extra room you need. This adaptation is especially useful for managing sleeveheads.

Because the pattern has cup sizes and I’d already done my usual back alteration, my main concern was checking the back of the skirt to see if I needed any extra length to cover my bum. The pattern has a decent amount of flare anyway, but you never know – always best to check!

Overall, I’d say the hem looks quite level. My chosen unglamorous outfit is a hooded jersey dress, one that’s perfect for slobbing around the house, just so I can get an idea of how a full skirt would look underneath without dressing up in one. I love the silhouette so far – it is just as I’d hoped. I’m tempted to lower the centre back a smidgen, just out of habit, but I think it’s fine. I’ll take the chance.

Otherwise, the amount of ease feels like it’ll be enough for a thermal vest, another layer, and a jumper – although nothing more than Aran or heavy worsted weight, I think. Hopefully you can make out where the lining collapses a little: this is partly because the facings aren’t attached, and partly because of the room built into the pattern. The slight pooling between my waist and bum is completely normal for my shape, and it should do once the coat is worn properly.

Next week is my final week at work, but if I make significant headway I will give you another update before Christmas. If not, I will officially sign off with my next post and share my progress in the second half of January. I’m not sure if I’ll get the coat finished this year as I hoped; on the other hand, the temperatures in London have given me a bit of wriggle room! More soon, either way.

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