As knitters, we adore the ease and classic appeal of a raglan sweater. Yet, if you’ve ever found yourself struggling with a baggy armpit, an awkward ‘point,’ or a neckline that just doesn’t sit properly, you’ve likely asked the question: “How should a raglan sweater fit?”
Standard raglan shaping—the simple reduction of stitches along the diagonal seam—is an oversimplification. Whilst it’s quick, it often ignores the complexity of the human body, leading to the common fit issues we see.
In this post, and the accompanying video, I reveal the two critical secrets that knitwear designers like me use to move beyond the basic diagonal line and achieve a truly *tailored* fit.
Secret #1: The Information Lost (and Regained) with Short Rows
The raglan style is rooted in woven garment pattern cutting, where different pieces (front, back, sleeve) are shaped precisely to accommodate the three-dimensional form. When we translate this into knitted (or crocheted) fabric, which is one continuous piece of cloth, vital shaping information is often lost.
**The Fix: Short Row Shaping through the Overarm.**
To compensate for the missing information, you *must* incorporate short row shaping through the overarm. This shaping adds length and fabric exactly where the human body curves—over the top of the shoulder and across the back of the neck. Without it, the fabric will pull and gape, creating that frustrating awkwardness many knitters experience. Short rows here are not just for the neck; they are essential for the structural integrity of the sleeve and shoulder junction.
Secret #2: Mastering the Principles of a Compound Raglan Sweater Pattern
The second secret is realizing that the armhole and sleeve are not straight lines; they are curves. And they don’t necessarily fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, either.
The human body is all about compound curves to get that smooth S-shape. The sleeve cap and the side of the body curve and flow into each other. To get a smooth, non-bunching fit, you need a compound raglan sweater pattern approach.
What is Compound Shaping?
Simple Shaping: Decreasing stitches at a single, consistent rate along the raglan line.
Compound Shaping: Adjusting the rate of decreases (the shaping) along the raglan line to reflect the body’s curves. This often means:
1. More aggressive shaping at the bottom of the armhole (where the curve is tightest).
2. Slowing down the shaping through the middle of the chest/back.
3. Adjusting again near the neckline.
This technique ensures that the resulting seam follows the natural curves of the body and arm, leading to a truly comfortable and tailored fit that drapes perfectly.
So…Do You Want to Design Your Own Tailored Fit? Or Knit a Pattern that Takes Care Of It For You?
Whether you are simply trying to make your next sweater fit better, or you’re dreaming of designing your own flawless patterns, these principles of short row and compound shaping are essential.
**🎯 Option A: Raglan Sweater Design Mastery**
Want to learn the theory behind these techniques and master the art of designing perfectly-fitting sleeves, every time? My Tailored Sleeves Masterclass will give you the skills and confidence to draft your own custom patterns.
**🎯 Option B: Knit The Raglan Sweater Example**
If you want to dive straight into a pattern that expertly uses this compound raglan sweater pattern knowledge, have a look at the popular Karin Ribbed Raglan Sweater Knitting Pattern. It’s the perfect showcase for the tailored fit we discussed!
And…if you found this post on how a raglan sweater should fit helpful, don’t keep it all to yourself!
Share it with other knitters or save to a board on Pinterest so that other knitters can benefit too.
And a big thank you to Katie, Connie, Brenda and Vickie for their ongoing support via Ko-Fi 🙂 – if you’d like to contribute to my tip jar, you can find a link in the top left of this post, or the bottom right. Thank you fo reading!