Three Key Skills for Successful Sweater Knitting

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There are three key skills for sweater knitting that I think are most useful in the long run. I’ve chosen these because a successful sweater (or cardigan) project isn’t only about finishing – it’s also about being happy with and comfortable in what you’ve made.

Try not to play small or pigeonhole yourself when it comes to knitting garments. It makes much more sense to acquire skills that will get you knitting clothes you actually want to wear – and clothes that actually fit. Too often, knitters fall into the trap of choosing patterns touted as easy…that they end up hardly wearing at all.

This is sad, especially after taking the time and effort to choose beautiful yarn in the perfect colour. Pick knitting patterns with the same care and attention. It’s worth it – and so are you.

So, without further ado, here’s skill number one…

Key skill number 1: Picking up stitches

Close up of picked up stitches for a knitted neckband.  This is a key skill for successful sweater knitting because it adds strength to the garment.

This is such a versatile skill! You see it in most types of construction.

For socks, turning the heel often involves picking up stitches. With sweaters, tank tops and other pullovers, they are typically picked up around the finished edge of a neckline. For cardigans, picked up stitches will also include the front opening edges.

Above is a photo of the Aneeta cardigan in progress. Stitches have been picked up along the wrap front edges, and two rows have been knitted in garter stitch.

Some of us knitwear designers have a LOT of fun experimenting with construction using this technique! Changing the direction of knitting for a design can create a lot of interest and opportunities for innovation.

For the Gaspra cardigan, I picked up stitches around the armhole edge to work the sleeves downward to the cuff. Ainur Berkimbayeva, who designs under Toqu Tigu, works in a variety of directions for her knitting patterns. Her beautiful Bereket pullover is worked sideways. Her Center Point Popover is knitted from the centre outward, with stitches picked up for the sleeves.

I also used this technique for the Huddle Hat and Fond Mittens. The cable trims were worked lengthways, forming a strip, and then stitches were picked up along one long edge. These picked up stitches were then used to knit the rest of the hat and mittens.

Tutorials on picking up stitches

Below are two YouTube videos from Jen Arnall-Culliford, with whom I collaborated for Fond, Huddle, and the other designs from the Something to Knit Together Winter collection. Picking up stitches involves working into both vertical strands of the selvedge stitch. The selvedge stitch is the stitch at the very beginning or end of the row. These tutorials show you how it’s done.

Key skill number 2: Symmetrical, or reversed/mirrored shaping, for knitting armholes, shoulders, and necklines of sweaters

Garments knitted flat or in pieces from the bottom up often feature this sweater knitting skill and type of shaping. Armholes and shoulders are typically cast off in steps, with the lower step being at the shoulder bone and the higher step being nearest the neck.

Shoulder and armhole shaping is always offset by one row because you can knit in only one direction. This means that one shoulder will have its stitches cast off on the right side (RS) of the knitting, and the other shoulder will have its stitches cast off on the wrong side (WS) of the knitting. This casting off takes place at the beginning of a row.

Pattern directions for armholes are often given as: “Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (or whichever number) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.”

This means: On the RS, cast off 4 stitches. Then work to the end of the row as usual. On the following WS row, cast of 4 stitches. Again, work to the end of the row.

This brings you back to the RS, where the shaping originally began. The remaining shaping will also begin on this RS row.

Shaping knitted shoulders and necklines of sweaters

The back of a sweater knitting project in progress, showing the key skill of leaving stitches on hold at the neckline.  Here, the centre back neck stitches are on hold.

Shoulders and necklines are slightly different from armholes. This is because stitches are left on hold at the centre front and centre back. These are the lowest points of the neckline, and placing stitches on hold is the only way to create a gap without cutting your knitting.

Creating this gap for the neckline also means that you can work only one side of the neckline at a time. The process involves:

  • Knitting partway through a row;
  • Slipping the stitches you haven’t yet knitted from the left-hand needle onto a holder for later on;
  • Focusing your attention on the stitches already on the right-hand needle.

Pattern instructions will often say something like: “Knit N stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on hold.”

Overhead shot of a knitted neckline in progress, showing the key sweater knitting skill of placing stitches on hold.  The first side (right-hand as viewed) has been knitted, and the second side is awaiting completion.  You can tell it hasn't been knitted yet because the wrong side of the colourwork pattern is showing on the left.

How It Works: Placing knitted stitches on hold for sweater neckline shaping

Your next job is to focus on the stitches on the right hand needle. This involves pretending the stitches on hold aren’t there – at least, not for now! The ‘end’ of your row has changed for a few minutes.

The innermost stitches of this slim piece of knitting will be decreased to shape the neckline. The remaining stitches for the shoulder will be cast off once the neckline shaping is complete. These shoulder stitches are usually cast off on the RS of the knitting when you’ve finished knitting the first side of the neckline.

Once that’s done, you go back for the stitches on hold to knit the second and final side of the neckline. Transfer these back to the left-hand needle, so that they’re ready to knit exactly as they were beforehand. If your project has a round neck, a group of stitches will be cast off at the centre of the neckline. If it has a V-neck, there may be one stitch left in the centre for future neckband detail – or maybe none at all. This depends on the design.

You can then shape the second side of the neckline so that it matches the first side, row by row.

Why I love symmetrical shaping in hand knitting – especially for necklines

This mirroring or ‘reversed shaping’ is why symmetrical decreases are so helpful. I love using them! I like to do k2tog and p2tog on the first side of the neck – with k2tog on the RS and p2tog on the WS. These decreases slope to the right, following the profile of the neckline.

For the second side, I use ssk on the RS and ssp for the WS. These decreases slope to the left.

Close up of a finished knitted neckband showing the key sweater knitting skill of symmetrical shaping.  On each side of the round neckline, one stitch follows the curve perfectly.

In the photo of the red lace sweater above, I’ve worked these very decreases around the neckline. They’re placed one stitch in from the very edge of the knitting to make the shaping more of a design feature.

The key to shaping the shoulder on the second side of the neckline is that it will be one row higher than the first side. You will need to cast these stitches off on the WS. So the quirk mentioned earlier about armhole shaping / being able to knit in one direction only comes back into play.

Key skill number 3: Sewing seams and setting in sleeves of sweaters

Sewing seams and setting in sleeves are in the final group of skills useful for knitting sweaters and cardigans. There are several garment patterns that don’t feature either of these techniques, but plenty do! If you’ve identified that seams and/or set-in sleeves suit your personal style and body shape, it’s well worth having these skills in the bag.

Just like picking up stitches, you’ll be able to turn your hand to a LOT of the garment patterns available. You’ll also be much more likely to find a design you love wearing that also has a great chance of fitting beautifully. Again, it’s about giving yourself the gift of choice.

Seeing seams as an opportunity to fit your body shape

Seams are also a wonderful way to incorporate tailoring details and nuances of fit that garments knitted in one piece cannot. How important this is to you personally depends (again!) on your style and body shape. The side seams of the Aneeta cardigan below mean anyone who knits it has a good chance of being happy with the fit.

Side seam detail of Aneeta, a DK wrap cardigan with waist darts and eyelet rib texture.

For example, if you need to blend sizes within a pattern – say, the body of one size and the sleeves of another size – according to your personal measurements, it’s easier to do. You can knit each piece, knowing it’s right for you, without having to improvise and work it into one big piece of knitting. This can be difficult if the design isn’t in plain stocking stitch and you don’t want to upset the stitch pattern. Sewing two pieces together at the end can be less intimidating – especially when you’re already confident that the garment will fit. You’re already assured of the reward at the end 🙂

A knitwear designer who loves seams

From a design point of view, I love the fact that handknits with seams give me a chance to create patterns that include and represent as many body shapes as possible. Working in an interdisciplinary way means I can bring in impactful techniques from creative pattern cutting and woven garment construction. This can go beyond sleeves, as you can see with Aneeta, but sleeves with seams are easier to fit in the long run.

This doesn’t just apply to set-in sleeves – it applies to raglan sleeves too. I could have designed the Karin sweater as a top-down seamless project, but I wanted to get the fit right. That involved doing two things: adding short row shaping AND sleeve seams. The short row shaping was MUCH easier to do on a smaller piece of knitting rather than one large piece in the round.

It’s worth it when I get lovely feedback from happy knitters, so I hope you’ll learn to love seams and sewing up if you don’t already 🙂

Tutorials for sewing sleeves and seams in hand knitting

This tutorial from Jen Arnall-Culliford demonstrates how to set in sleeves flat. This technique allows you to sew up the side and underarm seams in one go. She does this using the Unite sweater as an example. This is also handy if you want to try pattern matching or need to work with the RS facing you.

So that’s it! There are your three key skills for sweater knitting.

Have these to hand, bookmark all the tutorials if you need them, and your bank of skills will pay dividends in years to come.

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Three Key Skills for Successful Sweater Knitting

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