The language of notches: What it is, why it works, and how to speak it

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Today I’m talking about how pattern cutting notches work – but with a little bit extra.

What are notches?

When you check your stitch counts whilst knitting, or are given one in the pattern, that is a tool that orients you and lets you know that things are (likely to be) progressing as they should. Notches do the same job in sewing patterns, except they are on pattern pieces that are to be joined.

For example, sleeve heads will have a central notch to align with the shoulder. Then, on either side of the curve, a double notch for the back, which matches to the back armhole curve; and a single one for the front sleeve and front armhole curve. This stops you from sewing in the sleeve the wrong way around. In sewing patterns, sleeve heads aren’t usually symmetrical.

Some people are happy to bypass notches and worry about them later (if at all).  Others don’t, and rely heavily on them for reassurance.  They are the sewing equivalent of stitch and row counts; checkpoints and tick boxes to let you know that you’re on the right path. They’re vital for visual learning and communication, even for people who don’t consider themselves to be visual learners. They’re a universal code or language, but every designer deploys it in a way that’s unique to them.

(Were you inspired to draft your own block after the 3-parter that’s just finished?  If so, you’ll definitely need notches for that! You can read part 1 of the block drafting series here.)

If you’ve ever learnt creative pattern cutting and had a teacher like me 😉, you’ll have had notches drilled into you.  They’re the first thing you mark whenever you create panels or sections of any kind that’ll be joined later. This is critical if you do any kind of dart manipulation, add volume, or go on a creative tangent.  No matter what you do, the notches are there to light your way home.

Never forget them.

Notches in garment construction

For construction, notches help you to make sense of the pattern pieces.  This is especially important if there are several pieces, if a couple of pieces look the same – or if several pieces look the same!  There are some conventions, too.  The back curve of a sleeve head will have a double notch; the front curve, only one. 

Most of the time, double notches indicate the back of something.

When you start learning this universal language, it feels comforting – and it should.  Reading images and fabric is a powerful skill.  The fun begins when you switch from passive to active; from reading and listening to speaking and listening…to DESIGNING.

Notches in pattern cutting

If to design is to create something original, we need a system to navigate this uncharted territory of imagination.

How do YOU use and rely on the language of notches? How do pattern cutting notches work for you?

You can go off on creative tangents as a pattern cutter or designer – and if your patterns are made by others, you can take them with you.  Flights of imagination are wonderful, but there’s no place like home.  Make sure you can find your way back.

There’s plenty of room for creative expression.  We’re heading into the territory of “There’s no right or wrong solution”; only clarity of communication.  This is related to bigger concepts like brand voice, style guides, tone – what makes your work YOURS. Everyone who engages with your creative work will recognise it by these fingerprints or markers.

I’ll discuss more about design and visual communication in the weeks to come, but you might also like these two posts. One is on knitting patterns, the other is one of my favourite books on fashion illustration and styling:

Finally , a big thank you to Connie and Katie for their support for my blog on Ko-Fi! If you’d like to and are able to do the same, click the floating pink button on the bottom left. And if you enjoyed this post or found it helpful, please share or pin it so that others can find it. Thank you 🙂

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